Interview With Plus Size Model Sara Alloy-Part 1

Photographer and Makeup by Nikki Gomez

I had the pleasure of interviewing plus size model Sara Alloy. She has been modeling for about four years, and is currently signed with IPM Model Management.

How did you get started modeling?

When I was in college (I went to the University of Michigan,) local businesses near campus were advertising for models so I applied in the store and was hired. Then I posted some pictures on a website called Model Mayhem and started networking with models I recognized. They told me that the first thing you do is move to NY. I’m from Ohio but had been to NY many times before to visit. My boyfriend is from this area so it worked out really well.

What kind of modeling do you mainly do? Do you feel like opportunities are expanding?  Is it tight right now because of the economy like everything else is?

I do mostly print, online website stuff, a little catalog. There are a lot more opportunities than there used to be. A lot more brands are taking plus size consumers into account and hiring plus size models to support their new brands. They are expanding their sizes. The Limited just announced that they are launching a whole new plus size division. Stuff like that is happening all the time. There are more opportunities but because of the economy they aren’t hiring as much.

Who have you done work for? I saw your spread in Glamour Magazine.

I just shot a great new campaign for a brand called F3; the designers are a cool couple of girls from Canada. I also did a cover and editorial for Daily Venus Diva Magazine. Glamour Magazine. I did a lookbook for Abby Z, they were one of the first jobs I did in New York, so that was really nice. There are always castings in the works. You’ll be in consideration but you don’t know until last minute. So you might be on hold for ten jobs but only wind up doing one of them.

Is your day job cooperative?

They are really supportive. They think it’s really exciting that I model.  Recently my boss even asked me if I need time off. I have a job where they try to be really supportive of the work/life balance.

Who would you love to work for who you haven’t worked for yet?

My dream client would be to work for Anthropologie, but they only carry up to a size 14/16 so they don’t use plus size models in their spreads. I’d love to do a makeup line. I would love to work for Lane Bryant or Hips and Curves lingerie out in California. I’ve done a lot of smaller local work; it’d be nice to do national brands. I was on hold a national jeans brand at one point, I’d love to get back in front of them and do a campaign.

Where do you shop yourself?

Forever 21. H&M. Department stores. Banana Republic.

What types of plus clothing would you like to see more of?

I think overall designers are getting better, especially in last year or two. You see a lot more trendy stuff. I’d really like to see the high fashion stuff that you see on the runways. I’d love to see them size their clothing up. I could totally wear the clothing if they’d cut it a little differently and take into consideration some of the plus size consumer’s areas of concern. It would be really nice to wear more trendy stuff. I don’t want to wait three seasons to wait for someone to make a knockoff of Roberto Cavalli.

We are talking about plus size models but it would be a good idea to define what that is. What does the industry describe it as and what would you personally define it as?

That’s a good question because there’s a lot of controversy about it. Traditionally the sample size for a plus size model is a size 12/14; nowadays you’ll see a model as small as a size 8. It’s really common to see a straight size model go away for a season and come back as a plus size model and they will only have gained a couple of inches. You usually have to be between 5’8” and 5’9”, have good skin, good teeth, be photogenic and comfortable in front of the camera, and know how to pose. There’s no real difference between a plus size model and a straight size model except that we are a couple of sizes bigger.

What is the higher end size of a plus size model that you’ll see?

Most agencies wouldn’t put a model on the board larger than a size 18, and that might be pushing it. That would be a smaller boutique willing to take a chance. Some modeling agencies won’t go past 16.

Where do you fall in that range, if you feel comfortable saying? I see you and many models with their dimensions posted online.

I’m a 14 and 5’8″.  So fortunately I’m in the middle. You get comfortable talking about your numbers.

Have you ever been asked to gain or lose weight in order to get a job?

I haven’t been told to my face which doesn’t mean it hasn’t been said about me. Clients won’t necessarily tell you that’s the reason you didn’t get the job. I’m in the sample size so that’s pretty safe. You’ll hear about padding to size up.  There will be a size 10 or 12 girl and a client wants a size 14 or 16 so they’ll put padding on. They’ll want her face and look, but want to represent a bigger woman so they’ll just have her put on custom foam padding under her clothes.

I read about padding in Woman’s Wear Daily. Do you have any feelings or thoughts about that?

I think it’s unfortunate that they do that. There are so many beautiful plus size models that you should be able to find a girl with the size that you want with the look that you want, instead of saying “I only want to use so and so because she’s famous and I want her in my brand but she’s not a 16.”

I also read in the WWD article that some plus size models have been told to do things like eat cotton balls dipped in juice or eat a lot of salt to bloat up a bit or look a little bit bigger for shoots.

I haven’t heard of that. That’s really scary. Usually plus size models pride themselves on being healthy and engaging in healthy practices. I don’t know anyone who’s done that and I feel bad for the girls who are doing it if they are. Continue reading

TLC’s Big Sexy-A TV Series Not to Be Missed!

I waited for TLC’s three part Big Sexy series with a combination of hopeful excitement and trepidation. I loved the concept-five plus size, confident and intelligent women making their way in fashion inNew York City. On other hand, I worried about its honesty, and whether it would be an exploitative three ring circus like so many reality television shows. Happily, Big Sexy did not disappoint.

This show features five friends-plus size model Nikki Gomez, fashion stylist Leslie Medlik, makeup artist Audrey Curry, fashion designer Heather Roach and plus size model Tiffany Bank. I loved their vibrant personalities, strong voices, and their willingness to stand up and be heard.

New York City Fashion Week Show and Nightclub

In the first episode last night, the women attempted to go to a New York City nightclub after attending a fashion week show (in which they saw some emaciated models, but none that looked like Nikki and Tiffany. Tiffany approached a designer, told her she was a plus size model and asked if she would ever use a plus size model in her show. The designer’s hesitation and insincere “yes” was demonstrative of the bias that exists in the fashion industry.

Outside the nightclub, the women stand on line to get in, only to be pushed aside as they reach the front. The bouncer pulls thinner women from further down the line and lets them in for free. The women then watch as the bouncer confers with co-workers as to what to do with them. Finally, the bouncer deigned to allow the women to enter, subject to a 30 dollar cover change, stating that it was “club policy.”

There were a number of ways the women could have dealt with this situation. Being pushed aside and made to wait to see if you would even be allowed to enter is painful and embarrassing, particularly in front of a line of onlookers. Some women might have retreated from the situation by slinking off. Others might have paid the cover charge unhappily and tried to put the incident out of mind and enjoy the rest of their night. But the women realized the bouncer was the one who should be ashamed. They refused to be pushed around or mistreated. Instead, they told off the bouncer and left. That’s when I was hooked.

Adventures in Dating

The show also dealt with the issues of dating for plus size women honestly and realistically.

Speed Dating

The women decided to go speed dating for the first time. Speed dating, for the uninitiated, is where men and women talk for around eight minutesminutes, a whistle blows, they mark on their scorecards whether they are interested in each other, and move onto a new prospect. Afterwards, you find out who was interested in you. I’ve been speed dating. It’s a shallow and silly process.

Tiffany asks one of the men whether he’s ever dated a plus sized woman before. He admits he would only date a plus size woman when he is drunk. The conversation afterwards centers on the refusal of many men to date plus size women. Many men are embarrassed to be seen with a plus size woman. Some men view plus size women as an easier mark with fewer options. The women discuss how some of them have dated and stayed with men they weren’t into because they were worried they couldn’t find anyone better who would want them.

I’ve gone speed dating. It’s superficial and silly. The rejection can be brutal. I dated a few men in the past from speed dating who I turned out to have nothing in common with. What else can you expect in eight minutes, which allows someone to do little more than look you up and down?

I could completely relate to these women. In the past, I dated with guys I wasn’t happy with for far too long. I was afraid I couldn’t do better. I didn’t want to be alone. I remember things now, and think to myself “What the hell was I thinking?” When they broke up with me, I thought there was something wrong with me. Meanwhile, deep down I didn’t even want to be with them. Finding a show like this that is so honest and real is hard and great when it happens. Continue reading

The Pulse of the Plus Size Community

 

During Full Figured Fashion Week, I attended the Pulse of the Plus Size Community Panel, which discussed the challenges, trends and future of the plus size community. It was hosted by comedienne Erica Watson. Panelists were Jill Hutchison, Publisher and General Manager for Sonsi.com, Katheryn Finney, founder of the TheBudgetFashionista.com and CEO of TBF Group, LLC, Madeline Figueroa-Jones, editor of PLUS Model Magazine, Jennene Biggins, Founder and CEO of Voluptuous Woman Company, and Leslie Medlik, who works for Re/Dress NYC.

The “Plus Size” Label

The definition of “plus size” is a fluid one. Some designers consider anything over a 10 or a 12 to be plus sized. Considering the “average sized” woman in the United States is a size 14, this label is misleading. Jill Hutchinson said she gets asked all the time “am I plus size”? She stressed that “plus size” is wrongfully given a negative connotation, and that you are what you are regardless of the label put on it.

The panel had a variety of opinions as to the labels put on the “plus size” woman. Leslie Medlik‘s opinion was not to sugarcoat it, a plus size woman is “fat” and women should take back the word proudly. Erica Watson too had problems with euphemisms, noting that a “curve” is often a “fat roll” and that there’s nothing wrong with that. Jill Hutchinson preferred to focus on terms that will make a woman comfortable with herself.  Madeline Figueroa-Jones stressed the community should be focusing on the real issues rather than words.

Too often people get so bogged down in nitpicking over words that the substance gets lost. While I believe in “telling it like it is,” I don’t see any benefit in trying to “take back” a word with negative connotations. Many weight-acceptance activists who do great work and have wisdom to impart call what they do “fat acceptance.” While I appreciate how they bring attention to important issues, personally I’d rather see derogatory terms and slurs eliminated rather than “redefined.”

Plus Size Models

Plus size designers frequently fail to use models that look like the female customers who will ultimately be wearing the clothes. Madeline Figueroa Jones asked a manufacturer why it didn’t use plus size models of color. The manufacturer’s response? Customers don’t respond to “bigger, darker” models. Their research was based on a study they did in 1998.

A woman from Catherine’s was in the audience. She asked her employer why they don’t use models truer to their customers’ body types. Catherine’s told her they conducted a study and determined customers wanted smaller size models that they could aspire to be like. The size of this focus group panel? Only 25 women.

Charging More for the Same Thing

Retailers often charge more for plus size offerings that are exactly the same as their regular size counterparts. Katheryn Finney listed the litany of excuses retailers give: pattern changes, different models required (which they often aren’t even using), more fabric, and less volume in sales. She stated that the solution is to “support those who support us.”

The woman from Catherine’s noted that Catherine’s charges more for their larger plus sizes. Ironically, Catherine’s sells more of these larger, more expensive clothes than the smaller plus sizes.

Considering the large number of plus size women in the United States, the excuse that there is no clothing market for them is a feeble one. A woman who works for Fashion Bug stressed that the buying power is definitely there. The problem is that manufacturers make unattractive, ill-fitting plus size clothes. Understandably, women don’t buy them.

Stefanie Cunningham of La’Grace International, who is launching a plus size bra line in Fall 2011 put it eloquently: “Bras are supposed to support, lift and fit, not bankrupt you.”

Katheryn Finney opined that success in high-end fashion offerings has a trickle-down effect to lower-priced offerings, and encouraged the audience to support high-end independent plus size designers. The panel as a whole noted that designers and retailers should work together to make plus size clothing more readily available and economically viable. Continue reading

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