Skinny Girls Have Body Image Issues Too

I received an interesting letter from a reader I thought was important to address. It was long, so I’ve shortened it slightly for blog-post purposes while capturing its spirit and main points.

[O]ne of the things that affects me when it comes to body positive blogs is that they are almost always centered on larger women being “real” women and shunning women who are very petite.

My body image issues…come from the other side of the spectrum. I’ve always been very small courtesy of genetics. A desire to be bigger and more “womanly” has frequently set the parameters for my sense of physical self-confidence. My self-esteem was affected by a desire to be larger and a loathing of my small body. I’ve spent many hours poking and prodding my body with revulsion… hoping that if I stared at the [mirror’s]  reflection long enough…it would change and look more like a “real woman.”

When I feel bad about my body, I search for positive body image sites. Often, they are about showing off your curves, not believing the “unrealistic skinny ideal.” [I]don’t believe in the ideal, but don’t marginalize people like me and say it’s unrealistic for everyone. After visiting such sites, I’m left feeling worse.

[S]ites like this one have a far more positive approach but ignore the fact that many skinny women suffer negative self-esteem and have body image issues. [A] lot of women feel far more comfortable saying things like, “Oh God you’re so TINY, do you ever eat?” and believing that comments like that aren’t as hurtful as being told you’re larger.

[B]ody positive blogs act as though women like me don’t even exist or have issues…A skinny girl silently suffering who, when she finally calls out for help, is told to shut up because her problems aren’t real and because people like her will never have suffered as much as bigger women. One who is told that she wouldn’t have the problem if she just ate a burger. Well the joke’s on them. In a few months of teenage naivety I tried that fast-food diet. I didn’t gain an ounce, but my body hated it. Funny, isn’t it, that what is unhealthy for larger people is also unhealthy for smaller people?

But something has happened in the last year or so. Do a search now for “real women come in all shapes and sizes…” Places that acknowledge the struggles of and celebrate all women of all sizes…Seeing women my size who have shared my experience makes me realize that I am not alone, or a freak, and that I am certainly a woman. And it also shows me that women larger than me are equally beautiful and valuable.

I was happy this reader took the time to write in because she made me think. I do believe that women in all shapes and sizes suffer from body issues, and that they have the right to be heard. A family member of mine has always been thin, albeit not “too thin,” for which I always envied her.  But over the past year she has been suffering from thyroid problems over the past year and has become very thin. I know she is self-conscious about it, and our family’s frequent words of concern, while spoken out of love, may make her feel worse. Continue reading

Interview With Plus Size Model Sara Alloy-Part 2

Photographer Roberto Ligresti, Makeup Rene Court

I’m back with the smart and beautiful plus size model Sara Alloy, who was nice enough to talk to me about modeling, body image and all sorts of things. Without further ado…..

Let’s talk a bit more about the plus size modeling industry. What advice do you give to aspiring models?

If somebody writes to me, I say I’m not an agent, and it’s completely subjective so it’s hard for to say. I could say “you’re beautiful” and they could go to an agency and get turned down, so my opinion is only worth so much. I ask them how tall they are and what their measurements are and let them know the basic requirements. If they’re 5’9″, that’s a great starting point. Next I say that it’s important how proportionate you are. The taller you are the bigger you can be. So if you’re 5’11” being a size 16 or 18 is more acceptable. If you’re 5’8″ or 5’9″  they want you to be a 12 or a 14. I tell them examples of the type of work I’ve done and expect to do. A lot of them get the wrong idea from shows like America’s Next Top Model as to what you can do.

Where do you tell them the most opportunities are?

Mostly print and web work, some editorials. There are very few runway shows for us these days, which is why Full Figured Fashion Week is so great.

I went to Full Figured Fashion Week and one of the retailers there was talking about how they would use smaller size women and then pin the clothing in the back to make it look like it fits. Have you seen that?

Absolutely. They want to show the clothes as fitting who will be wearing the clothes. Sometimes they can’t get a sample that will fit the model, so they will pin the clothes. I don’t think pinning is as controversial as padding to size up.

Women at Full Figured Fashion Week said that they had done research and plus size consumers don’t want to see plus size models that look like them. Instead they want to see smaller models that give them something to aspire towards. Would you like to comment on that?

I think most women idealize a slightly smaller size, whether or not they admit it. I might be a size 14, but often times I’m shopping where the models are much smaller. Naturally you envision yourself reflecting what you see in the advertising. I’m putting on my advertising hat when I’m speaking like this, but honestly, what they are doing is good marketing. You are ultimately selling people a dream. Even if you are comfortable with who you are, it’s so drilled into our heads that we should be thinner than we are that when you go shopping you automatically look at a mannequin or model and see yourself reflected in whatever advertising you’re looking at.

So do you think that a size 20 wants to see a size 20 or that a size 20 would rather see a size 16 or 18?

They say they want to see a size 20 but honestly every time they try to use a size 20 or other bigger sizes they don’t sell the clothes. If a company books a size 18 model and the clothes aren’t selling, they aren’t going to book the model again. I’d like to see more diverse models used, but the retailers aren’t going to respond to what customers say, they’re going to respond to what their sales say. As consumers we all need to be better about voting with our dollars.

What do you think would change that?

I think the shoot Steven Meisel did for Vogue Italia was very helpful. Rosie Mercado who was the face of Full Figured Fashion Week 2 years ago, she’s larger but she’s so beautiful. She’s tall and carries herself with such confidence that clothes look great on her. They could use someone like her, and have Steven Meisel shoot her and put her in a high fashion spread and show that ideal of beauty.

Do you think the change will come from retailers or designers or consumers improving their body image so they want to see models that look like them or a combination?

I think it’s a combination because on the one hand you have imagery drilled in our heads from the time we are little girls, you’re seeing the actresses on TV from  the time you start watching it, you’re seeing them in magazines, you are being told everywhere that you need to be a certain way. So that is a problem, that girls are being bombarded. We’re conditioned to think that skinny is beautiful.

On top of that designers don’t cut clothes for bigger girls. Agents won’t book bigger girls so it seems as if they feel it’s a waste of time to put bigger girls on their boards. So there are no bigger girls to shoot campaigns should they decide to use bigger girls. It’s a cyclical thing. Continue reading

Interview With Plus Size Model Sara Alloy-Part 1

Photographer and Makeup by Nikki Gomez

I had the pleasure of interviewing plus size model Sara Alloy. She has been modeling for about four years, and is currently signed with IPM Model Management.

How did you get started modeling?

When I was in college (I went to the University of Michigan,) local businesses near campus were advertising for models so I applied in the store and was hired. Then I posted some pictures on a website called Model Mayhem and started networking with models I recognized. They told me that the first thing you do is move to NY. I’m from Ohio but had been to NY many times before to visit. My boyfriend is from this area so it worked out really well.

What kind of modeling do you mainly do? Do you feel like opportunities are expanding?  Is it tight right now because of the economy like everything else is?

I do mostly print, online website stuff, a little catalog. There are a lot more opportunities than there used to be. A lot more brands are taking plus size consumers into account and hiring plus size models to support their new brands. They are expanding their sizes. The Limited just announced that they are launching a whole new plus size division. Stuff like that is happening all the time. There are more opportunities but because of the economy they aren’t hiring as much.

Who have you done work for? I saw your spread in Glamour Magazine.

I just shot a great new campaign for a brand called F3; the designers are a cool couple of girls from Canada. I also did a cover and editorial for Daily Venus Diva Magazine. Glamour Magazine. I did a lookbook for Abby Z, they were one of the first jobs I did in New York, so that was really nice. There are always castings in the works. You’ll be in consideration but you don’t know until last minute. So you might be on hold for ten jobs but only wind up doing one of them.

Is your day job cooperative?

They are really supportive. They think it’s really exciting that I model.  Recently my boss even asked me if I need time off. I have a job where they try to be really supportive of the work/life balance.

Who would you love to work for who you haven’t worked for yet?

My dream client would be to work for Anthropologie, but they only carry up to a size 14/16 so they don’t use plus size models in their spreads. I’d love to do a makeup line. I would love to work for Lane Bryant or Hips and Curves lingerie out in California. I’ve done a lot of smaller local work; it’d be nice to do national brands. I was on hold a national jeans brand at one point, I’d love to get back in front of them and do a campaign.

Where do you shop yourself?

Forever 21. H&M. Department stores. Banana Republic.

What types of plus clothing would you like to see more of?

I think overall designers are getting better, especially in last year or two. You see a lot more trendy stuff. I’d really like to see the high fashion stuff that you see on the runways. I’d love to see them size their clothing up. I could totally wear the clothing if they’d cut it a little differently and take into consideration some of the plus size consumer’s areas of concern. It would be really nice to wear more trendy stuff. I don’t want to wait three seasons to wait for someone to make a knockoff of Roberto Cavalli.

We are talking about plus size models but it would be a good idea to define what that is. What does the industry describe it as and what would you personally define it as?

That’s a good question because there’s a lot of controversy about it. Traditionally the sample size for a plus size model is a size 12/14; nowadays you’ll see a model as small as a size 8. It’s really common to see a straight size model go away for a season and come back as a plus size model and they will only have gained a couple of inches. You usually have to be between 5’8” and 5’9”, have good skin, good teeth, be photogenic and comfortable in front of the camera, and know how to pose. There’s no real difference between a plus size model and a straight size model except that we are a couple of sizes bigger.

What is the higher end size of a plus size model that you’ll see?

Most agencies wouldn’t put a model on the board larger than a size 18, and that might be pushing it. That would be a smaller boutique willing to take a chance. Some modeling agencies won’t go past 16.

Where do you fall in that range, if you feel comfortable saying? I see you and many models with their dimensions posted online.

I’m a 14 and 5’8″.  So fortunately I’m in the middle. You get comfortable talking about your numbers.

Have you ever been asked to gain or lose weight in order to get a job?

I haven’t been told to my face which doesn’t mean it hasn’t been said about me. Clients won’t necessarily tell you that’s the reason you didn’t get the job. I’m in the sample size so that’s pretty safe. You’ll hear about padding to size up.  There will be a size 10 or 12 girl and a client wants a size 14 or 16 so they’ll put padding on. They’ll want her face and look, but want to represent a bigger woman so they’ll just have her put on custom foam padding under her clothes.

I read about padding in Woman’s Wear Daily. Do you have any feelings or thoughts about that?

I think it’s unfortunate that they do that. There are so many beautiful plus size models that you should be able to find a girl with the size that you want with the look that you want, instead of saying “I only want to use so and so because she’s famous and I want her in my brand but she’s not a 16.”

I also read in the WWD article that some plus size models have been told to do things like eat cotton balls dipped in juice or eat a lot of salt to bloat up a bit or look a little bit bigger for shoots.

I haven’t heard of that. That’s really scary. Usually plus size models pride themselves on being healthy and engaging in healthy practices. I don’t know anyone who’s done that and I feel bad for the girls who are doing it if they are. Continue reading

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 238 other followers

%d bloggers like this: